
Beau covers the water: the Gulf seafood houses, the Cajun and Creole kitchens that rode I-10 west from Louisiana, and the crawfish boils and Viet-Cajun rooms that are uniquely Houston. He judges a boil by the spice and the snap, not the line out front.
The new opening, the sleeper the score just flagged, and the one room worth booking this week. Free.